London Fashion Week Mens | Autumn / Winter 2019 Round Up Day 2
We kick off in the ‘Post Human Era’ for Day 2 of LFWM, with C2H4. Their collection ‘FM-2030’ created from the perspective that humanity will reach a turning point in the year 2030, resulting to ageless humans living forever with technology advances. A cumulation of futuristic patterns and embellishments with a “FM-2030” motif referenced throughout, to illustrate the manipulation of technology and its impact on sartorial techniques and materials. Traditional garment constructions have been disrupted to interpret retro-futuristic and sporty styles, via a range of key pieces; shirts, tailored jackets, windbreakers and vests.
Swiftly moving onto PRIVATE POLICY, a Chinese brand meaning “Making your own rules.” Presented by 智族GQ, the autumn / winter 2019 collection “MONEY VS. HUMAN: who is winning?” tells the story of four characters, integral to the money system: bankers, workers, police officers and robbers. Streetwear aesthetics have been blended with structured pieces, creating garments that have more of an easygoing flow. With a colour palette ranging from rich browns, greys and blacks to pops of gold, burnt orange, vibrant orange and metallic lime green. The show resembled that of a bank, with the use of silver looking desks along the runway. To reference the bankers; oversized tailored wool coats and outerwear. Quilted vests and harnesses paid homage to police officers and robbers, whilst denim utility workwear represented the working class. The concept, incredible and so is the collection.
Studio ALCH was another favourite collection of ours from the season. Based upon the idea that commuting is a sport, one we compete in throughout our day to day lives. The collection follows the notion of “competitive commuting,” dressing in preparation for the workout of real life, rather than just for sporting activities. Bringing the functionalities and mindset of going to the gym however, you are simply going about your normal day instead. Silhouettes featured removable bags and an excess of pockets, designed to reduce the need for last minute shopping bags. The tones of the collection are mostly black and grey, with the inclusion of a creased metallic body warmer, a peachy orange windbreaker styled tracksuit and a cropped white sweater with a zipped neck and chevron print motif.
Per Götesson showcased an impressive collection, which pushed the boundaries of masculinity. Pieces included a layered trouser design, displaying an intentional zipped split in the crotch area, an indigo denim wide leg jean with thigh high open splits and animal prints used as scarves, a hand fur muff and hats. Highlight piece, the black oversized trench with the cosy animal print lining, absolutely beautiful.
Alex Mullins presented his autumn / winter collection with a complete cast of female models. The collection paid homage to traditional men’s tailoring along with american western styles and motocross sports. Brown was the palette of choice for majority of the pieces, along with beige and a sprinkle of denim and pink. The looks are strong, perhaps because the display of the silhouettes, slightly oversized sit impressively on the female structure. The wide leg double denims looks, with the oversized trench coats are a dream.
Racing over to the DANSHAN presentation, which was taking place in Haggerston. The collection was showcased with such beauty and calmness. Incense was in the air and the exploration of emotions and feeling was on display. The models walked in, out and around a pool of shallow water, allowing their garments to flow naturally and peacefully throughout the presentation. There was a running theme of silk, used as embellishments on trousers, as scarves and also shirts. A black polished leather jacket, knee length shorts and trouser were also included, along with a number of trench style coats. The palette, very monotone consisting of olive green and grey.
Returning back at the Truman Brewery, to catch none other than RAEBURN. With continued efforts to push forward as a sustainable business, the RAEMADE highlights for the season are inspired by RAEBURN iconic archetypes from the past 10 years, re-imagined using innovative materials and modern silhouettes. Constructed using deadstock materials and waste fabrics from the RAEBURN Lab in Hackney.
In collaboration with Timberland, the collection serves up functional outerwear that will have you spinning heads. A heavy dosage of olive tones, amongst black and a splash of peach and grey. The collection includes original typhoon suits, designed for protection against the elements. Deconstructed and reconstructed using the RAEBURN CUT N’ SHUT patchwork technique to create an impressive parka and trouser set. German safety jackets, reworked into a unique parka and bomber jacket. Transit blankets made from a robust multi-layered recycled wool mix, recreated into a reversible field jacket and women’s parka. An anorak, culottes, shirt and t-shirt were also made using an iconic air brake parachute, as part of the RAEMADE highlights, all of which have been brought into the main collection with fully RAECYCLED iterations.
As part of the brands RAEDUCED initiatives and efforts to use up waste, this seasons knitwear is made from a blend of luxurious cashmere and recycled yarn. I think we could all probably learn a thing or two from RAEBURN. Their approach to sustainability through the use of remaking and recycling is extremely necessary and they urge us all to think twice about our planet’s wellbeing.
For our next show, we head over to the outdoor courtyard of Broadgate Plaza. Wait, outdoor? It’s way too cold for all that but you know what, for Astrid Anderson it was very much worth it and the show did look rather stunning. For autumn / winter 2019, Anderson explores a classic pinstripe tracksuit, merging the worlds of traditional tailoring with the comfort of streetwear. A concurrent theme of hand painted pieces, made their way onto the catwalk - using a palette of deep red, blue, mind and orange, translated onto quilted mac jackets, hoodies, shirts, kimono’s and a jersey. These pieces specifically scream comfort and freedom, with the use of oversized and baggy fits. Lace and fur returns as a familiar feature from Anderson over the seasons and my gosh, the baby blue fur coat worn by Neelam Gill is an absolute dream.
Next up, Fashion East showcase new designers Robyn Lynch, Mowalola and also continue support to Stefan Cooke for their third season at LFWM. Celebrities were out in full force for the show, with the likes of Skepta, Héctor Bellerín, Oliver Proudlock, Munroe Bergdorf, and MNEK all in attendance.
Presenting her first collection, Robyn Lynch explores the possibilities of her Irish menswear heritage, with inspiration taken from archive footage of players and fans at the Dublin Games, as well as her own father’s personal style. Working with block colours, blue, white and green, pieces were repeated across the colour sections with slight variations to the fabric or style. The collection includes blue nylon track pants, cut with a purposely high waist, a roomy zip-up jacket, an Aran knit white sweater vest with a nylon inset within the sleeves, a merino wool white zip neck sweater, nylon shorts lined with fleece and jeans slim on the leg but cut wide at the top and belted.
Fashion designer Mowaloa also presents her debut collection, with an emphasis on sexual self expression and freedom. Now you can see more of the human body than you can the clothes, with skimpy bodysuits, tight tailored bumsters and cut-out shirting, designed to discover and celebrate limitless love and self-acceptance. Erotic nudes by Lea Colombo are printed/painted onto nappa trenches, micro-mini skirts and pebbled calf or lambskin jackets. An intriguing and somewhat audacious collection, keen to see what’s in store next season.
Stefan Cooke and partner Jake Burt deliver their third and final collection with Fashion East this season, with celebration and self-reflection in mind. Known for the use of subverted craft, collectible timepieces and exploring trompe l’oeil throughout past collections, all are revisited and edited into this seasons collection. Exploring the idea of blatant glamour, achieved through techniques that are impressive however subtle, ghost printing is used to create flash photography motifs such as lace, vintage doilies and tassels. Leather takes inspiration from the elasticated detail from a Chelsea boot, to create a jacket and trouser that split’s as you move.